Aarhus  

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DENMARK'S second city sees itself as a pocket-sized Copenhagen - all the attractions of the capital shoehorned into a metropolis half the size. There is some truth in this, although it retains a cosy and provincial, rather than cosmopolitan, feel - the people are among the most open and friendly you will ever meet. (I swear that Aarhus has the most polite drunks on the planet.)

Aarhus's mix of cultural events, museums, sporting activities and a thriving cafe scene, all in a city centre that takes minutes to traverse, means it is a good two-day destination in its own right. You should stay longer if you wish to add the beautiful rolling countryside, picturesque villages, grand castles, attractions such as the excellent Scandinavian Deer Park (mainly for the wolves, rather than the deer) and the Blue Flag beaches of Djursland - all of which are within a short drive.

What Aarhus reminds me of - leaving aside the rather unsightly industrial development on the waterfront - is a giant Center Parc with the dome taken off. Thanks to the proximity of sea, beach and countryside, healthy outdoor activity is the leitmotif of the city - jogging, sea-kayaking, golf, sailing, cycling, swimming, walking and riding seem to occupy so many of the inhabitants, it is little wonder the city centre is free of crowds. I suspect that when you move to Aarhus, they make you fill in a questionnaire on how much sport you do, and couch potatoes are ruthlessly weeded out.

Getting there: Ryanair (0870 156 9569; www.ryanair.com) flies twice a day to Aarhus. I recently found flights on offer in late September for 20p; otherwise, it's £19 plus tax, which is still a bargain. One baffling thing in a city so small - the airport is a 40-minute drive away (a bus runs to the city centre for those not hiring a car; £10 return). This is because it was built by the Germans during the second world war as a fighter base, not a tourist gateway. Very inconsiderate of them.

Getting around: Avis, Hertz, Budget and Europcar are all at the airport. The best weekend deal I found was through Europcar (0870 607 5000; www.europcar.co.uk) for £100. Cycling is also a viable option - the nearby beaches and forest are easily accessible along cycle paths. Gunnar Asmussen (Fredensgade 54) has bikes from about £5 a day.

The Aarhus Pass (£10 for two days from the tourist office) gives you unlimited travel throughout the city on excellent public transport, as well as entrance to many attractions.

Where to stay: the best address in town is the traditional, 19th-century Hotel Royal (Store Torv 4; 00 45-8612 0011), all dark-wood panelling and heavy brocade, but very comfortable. During the week, doubles cost £140 a night; at weekends, this drops to £98, including breakfast.

The 15-room Hotel Guldsmeden (Guldsmedgade 40; 8613 4550), in the heart of the Latin Quarter, has quirky, comfortable rooms, friendly staff, a good cafe and pleasant garden. Doubles cost £60-£80 a night, including breakfast.

For those on a budget, the Cab-Inn (Kannikegade 14; 7021 6200) is designed to offer compact, ship-like accommodation at low prices (from £45 a double). Good if you don't have a cat that needs swinging.

Where to eat and drink: what Aarhus does best is cafe society, either on the bustling canalside of Aaboulevarden (Sidewalk for excellent sandwiches, Cafe Svej for salads and pastries) or in the narrow streets of the Latin Quarter. Just stroll about and pick one - try those along Studsgade, such as Cafe Englen and Cafe Kindrodt.

Serious beer-drinkers should head for Bryggeriet Sct Clemens (Kanikkegade 10-12), a brew-pub offering decent steaks.

Some of the best food is just out of town at the Marselisborg marina, a five-minute cab ride. Seafood (8618 5655) is the pick of the bunch, though it's expensive. Navigator has a good terrace for boat-watching.

Further information: Danish Tourist Board (020 7259 5958; www.visitaarhus.com).

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