Pescara  

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AS A city-break destination, Pescara is a flop: modern, characterless and congested. But head just a few miles inland, and you'll find yourself in another world, a rich and varied landscape of medieval hilltop villages, wooded valleys, lakes and mountains. This is Abruzzo, a little-known slab of middle Italy wedged between the Apennines and the Adriatic.

There is plenty to do. You can tour Renaissance churches, cycle along the tratturi - the ancient shepherds' tracks that crisscross the mountains - or hike in the woods, searching for brown bears. It's easy to find your own bit of wilderness: a third of Abruzzo is designated as a national park.

If you're only there for a weekend, resist the temptation to try to do everything. Find a good hotel, indulge in the robust regional cuisine and take a couple of road trips. Unusually for Italy, driving in Abruzzo is a pleasure: the winding country lanes are so free of traffic that you'll think you're in a TV car ad.

If you do only one drive, make it this one: take the A25 west to Cocullo and head south towards Scanno through a stunning steep-sided gorge, passing medieval stone villages and a pretty lake. Scanno, where some women still wear the traditional black woollen skirt and turban-style headdress, is a perfect place for a cappuccino and a slice of the local almond cake, pan dell'orso.

On the way back, stop at Sulmona, the birthplace of Ovid and a town dominated by the production of confetti (the wedding decorations are sculpted out of sugared nuts). Nearby is another beautiful hilltop village, Pacentro, whence Madonna's grandparents emigrated to America.

Getting there: Ryanair (0870 333 1231; www.ryanair.com) flies twice a day from Stansted; one-way fares from £19. The airport has two English-speaking tourist offices: both can provide information and book hotels.

Getting around: you'll need a car. Avis (0870 590 0500) has a group B car for three days in September for £60.

Where to stay: the Adriatic coast is dotted with cheap and cheerful beach resorts, which in summer are packed with Italian families. Most of the hotels are of indifferent quality, with one notable exception: the Mion Hotel (00 39-085 935 0935; www.mionhotel.com). The family-run Mion, in the resort of Silvi Marina, a 25- minute drive from the airport, is a gem. It's friendly and stylish, with a superb kitchen and half-board rates from £47pp. Sadly, it is only open between May and September. Out of season, my first choice would be the Castello Chiola (085 829 0690; castellochiola@hotmail.com), in the hilltop village of Loreto Aprutino, 40 minutes from the airport. A recently converted 9th-century castle, it has huge rooms with arched ceilings and superb views, a glass-roofed courtyard and a pool. Doubles with breakfast cost £97. Both hotels are featured by Magic of Italy (0870 027 0500).

Where to eat and drink: all along the coast, you'll find fish restaurants serving fresh gamberi, alici (anchovies), merluzzo (cod) and guazzetto (a local spicy fish soup). Inland, traditional menus are dominated by agnello (lamb), pasta and vast plates of antipasti. Prices are reasonable (£10- £20pp). The following are recommended: the Italia (086 433070), in Sulmona; La Bilancia (085 828 9321), in Loreto Aprutino; and La Casina Rosa (085 828 9744), an agrituristica in nearby San Pellegrino. The £23 candlelit set dinner at the Mion Hotel is outstanding. Take a dictionary, as little English is spoken in the villages.

Further information: from the regional tourist board (085 7671; www.regione.abruzzo.it/turismo/en).

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