Poitiers  

 Pescara | Carcassonne | Jerez de la Frontera | Aarhus

THE ATTRACTIONS of Poitiers can be summed up in a single word - but which word depends on whom you ask. "Churches," said my guide. "Futuroscope," said everyone else under 40. A quick survey on my flight from Stansted suggested the lure of the theme park outweighed the glories of some of France's finest Romanesque architecture.

Futuroscope is a French Epcot to Disneyland Paris: the action takes place on giant screens in a whole geometry set of unlikely looking buildings. Headsets translate everything for those who don't speak French, but the eye-popping images tell their own story.

Poitiers itself is worth perhaps a day and a half. There are some fine old churches, the biggest architectural draw being the intricate work on the 12th-century facade of Notre Dame la Grande, on Place Charles de Gaulle. It looks like a giant ivory casket, but in medieval times it was painted in a lurid palette of primary colours. The effect is re-created every evening in a light show at 10.30pm throughout the summer (9.30pm in September).

Mostly, though, Poitiers feels like a somnolent country town. There is a good market on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday mornings, and once you have assembled your picnic, you should take it to the wide avenues, aviaries and arbours of the Parc de Blossac.

Within an hour or so of Poitiers, you can roll out the barrel in Cognac, potter around Limoges or muck about in a boat in the Marais Poitevin.

Getting there: Buzz (0870 240 7070; www.buzzaway.com) flies to Poitiers from Stansted; from £35 one-way.

Getting around: the big car-hire companies all have branches at Poitiers airport, but it's just 10 minutes from town - a taxi costs £5, and you can book ahead (00 33-5 49 88 12 34). Attractions within the town can easily be reached on foot.

Futuroscope: buses 16 and 17 go to the park from the town hall and the station for 80p; a taxi costs £10. Entrance is £20 for adults (£14 for children aged 5-12). Contact Futuroscope on 05 49 49 30 80, or visit www.futuroscope.com

Where to stay: the three-star Grand Hôtel (05 49 60 90 60; doubles from £43) and the two-star Hôtel de l'Europe (05 49 88 12 00; doubles from £32) are almost next to each other, and offer peaceful lodgings in a central location. A family room at the Ibis (05 49 88 30 42), nearby, costs £40 for four people. The impressive Château du Clos de la Ribaudière (05 49 52 86 66; doubles from £50) is five miles north of Poitiers. There are 11 hotels in or around Futuroscope: a night at the three-star Novotel Futuroscope (05 49 49 91 91) starts at £62.

Where to eat: for regional cooking, try Le Poitevin (05 49 88 35 04). It seems a bit joyless, but there's a good set menu of Poitou-Charentes specialities. The Michelin-starred Restaurant des Trois Piliers (05 49 55 07 03) might nibble away at any savings on your air fare, but it also produces fine food. Alain Boutin (05 49 88 25 53) and Le Maxime (05 49 41 27 37) are both recommended. There are plenty of reliable bistros in town.

Where to drink: for a deep and meaningful moment over a pastis, students and thinkers gather in the Gil' Bar, on Place Charles de Gaulle, on Thursday evenings to discuss philosophy. The bars nearby are not quite so cerebral - and more fun.

Further information: from the Poitiers tourist office (05 49 41 21 24; www.poitou-charentes-vacances.com).

Back to Low Cost Travel Links